|Addy remains clothed in the finest of clothings.|
It's time for the Third Annual American Girl Collectors Secret Snarker Gift Swap! Well, the wrapping up thereof.1 This year was quite successful, and I'll post about what I got later this week, because it's super cute and I wanna give it a full review--as well as the outfit I got last year.2 But first, let's talk about what I made, because a gift swap is an excuse to sew, and there's never a bad excuse to sew. This year I got The Edwardian Girl as my giftee, who not only is one of the members of AGC, but runs an Etsy shop you should so get in on because she makes some damn fine outfits. (Do you not have Addy's Cape Island Dress? Do you like reproductions? She makes em! Get on that.) Sewing for another good seamstress can always be a touch intimidating, because I undercut how good I am at everything because who needs self esteem? (I'm getting better at it). But as I flipped through her survey, she mentioned Addy. We all knew where this was going the moment I saw Addy's name. Make another outfit for Addy Walker? Don't mind if I do!
Addy’s Cream Lace Dress and Pinafore
Addy is ready for another year of school at the ICY with her new outfit: a cream and flower print dress that Ruth just finished for her. It has fine cream crochet lace at sleeves, bodice, and hem; off-white cuffs and collar; side sashes, and three fine pink buttons down the front. Underneath she has matching lace-trimmed pin-tucked pantaloons, and when she wants to keep her clothes clean during chores there’s a matching lace pinafore. Tie her pink ribbon in her hair and send her off to school!
And like usual, I made two, kept the weaker set, and am ready to talk about what I did, how, and why.
But before I do, a little bit of American Girl collection personal squeal. I have lamented muchly about how, through a mix of crafting, cheap purchases, secondhand, the occasional splurge, and gift, I had a nearly complete Addy collection. Nearly. Because the one authentic thing I was missing was the whistle from Addy's Church Fair Fun Set, and the costs people ask for a whistle were ridic, and I was never sure I'd ever get one.
Well, Miss Tae of AGC got one and sent it to me. As a gift. To finish my collection.
|it is sitting in her lap and it makes tweet noises and so did I~|
I, for all intents and purposes, have a complete Addy Walker collection.4 All her old stuff, all her new stuff, all her BeForever stuff. My first girl has everything I've ever wanted for her from AG. Thank you, Miss Tae, thank you, thank you.
Now let's cut and talk about her new dress set.
|Dress for me and for TEG.5|
Originally I had considered doing vertical stripes for the dress, but apparently stripes are not the hotness in fabric nowadays at Joann's unless it's very 60s, and I don't mean 1860s. So instead I went up and down the aisles for a while fiddling with the colors and ideas until I found this lovely authentic looking cotton floral print that was a subtle mix of pink and purple flowers. I paired it with an off white broadcloth that--contrary to popular belief in the AG Chicken Head part of the fandom--is not cheap crap and is actually pretty sturdy and strong for working up some doll clothes and stuff, and got just enough broadcloth that there was room for making some pantaloons to match, which I added in at the last minute. I also grabbed trims and ribbon because hair ribbons rock.
Addy's wearing her BeForever Meet socks, her Classic Meet shoes, and the Classic cowry shell necklace she nearly never takes off.
|Pinafores make the dress a lot.|
The back of the pinafore swoops up in two curves to the back tie, all with lace. You can also see here that the ends of the ties are sewn and pressed into picots.
|Bodice. And the Lace Fuck up.|
The pattern calls for the bodice lace and trims to be put on before the sleeves and collars, so you're working flat, which of course makes sense. Sense what is sense? Cause guess what I forgot to do! See, I don't exactly follow pattern guidesheets, because at this point I can put together a bodice without thinking about the steps, it's automatic.8 And I realized the lace wasn't there after the sleeves were finished. Mother fucker. So, rather than ripping the entire sleeve out and making my life hell, I somehow managed to work the lace on, on the machine, before putting the skirt on. This resulted in a crooked match up on the back of TEG's set once the closures were done, but hers had the better skirt match, so I gave her that set. Hopefully she will not shank me.
|Dat Dropped Sleeve.|
The bodice is a standard shape for the era, with the dropped sleeves look. One of the many things I love about Keepers Dolly Duds is that her patterns are authentically designed for their eraa; this means her Addy style patterns have the dropped sleeves that go over the shoulder, and I'm not obligated to add an inch on the pattern to get the proper look of the era. There's nothing that bothers me so much as seeing a dress on Etsy that claims to be mid-1800s but has the high armscythe. It's an easy edit, people, just do it like Nike.
|Skirt and skirt lace.|
The print is a mix of flowers and leaves on a creamish background. It's not too fall or too spring, and will look great year round.
|Step 3: Make Underpants.|
|So many bows.|
Best part of making it: The apron was probably my favorite part; it went together easy, even with the hand sewing, and looks so nice over the dress. And oh MAN does the print of the dress match the apron so well. I think it worked better than the stripes would have, and TEG loves it. I love it when the colors come together. And having extra for pantaloons, because yay pantaloons and matching!
Worst part of making it: Next time I will pay attention to when the lace goes on the damn bodice and not do it after I've finished the bodice. Also my turning dowels are missing and I need a new one so it took me a while to turn the side ties with a chopstick.
Historical Accuracy: Oh, yeah. Dropped sleeves, accurate pattern that didn't force me to adjust the drop sleeves, and the goodness that is KDD. Feels good, man.
Does it look good on the doll?: *points* duh. Addy F. Walker looks good in like, everything and anything I make her, minus some early installment messups. And TEG's Addy is looking particularly lovely.
Would I use the pattern again? Yep! I mean, technically I own parts of it and have used them before, so of course I would. I like the way KDD does her stuff. Highly recommend her patterns for those who like making the AG wardrobes. And after the last sale she ran, I own almost all her Etsy patterns for AG--well until she releases more, and I get them in the next sale.
Final Thoughts: Never a bad time to make a nice Addy dress set.
complete Addy collection eee~
1 Tracking only shows two packages in transit, and they're international, so I'm keeping my eyes open.
2 The first year I got two outfits from Amazon, and will give those a full review as well. Eventually.
3 Between everything I've made for Addy and everything I own for her, all her clothes and things won't fit in her trunk. I may have to buy her a second storage trunk--non AG--and use that for accessories and use her main trunk for clothes. The same thing is happening with Kit too.
4 I mean, if people wanna get into semantics? My Patriot Dress is a reproduction I made; her needlework kit is a mix of old apron, new lantern, a pdf of the book, and repro embroidery threads and items; I don't have the second Ice Cream set (I have her first); I don't have her kite because I got her blue dress when it was all about flowers; and I don't have her African Dance Outfit or the first undies with the red petticoat, neither of which I want. But FUCK THE HATERS I HAVE THE WHISTLE. (And the scenes and settings.)
5 The poet that knows it.
6 As I should have, give me a moment before I bitch about my fuck ups.
7 Been listening to a lot of these, and there's a new one today that I'll put on once I'm done with this blog. Guess who learned that she can get housework and many other things done when she does a podcast, because all she has to do is listen and not look at the TV! Go me. I'm productive.
8 This has made designing my patterns hard. Not because I don't know how to draft or clean them up--I can do that easy enough. But my method of putting together a dress is "put together bodice, add skirt, dress done." I almost never think about the fiddle bit steps. I just do the thing. And I have to do that on a doll clothes pattern that I plan to put on Etsy because the steps can't be "Step one: cut out the things. Step two: fabric assemble."